Rusty Mill & Co. >>>

Ugo Iermano “The Mastermind of Rusty Mill & Co.


1. What is Rusty Mill Denim?
Rusty Mill & Co. is inspired by everything that has rust, visible or imaginary. Every object, place, person who carry along a story, according to Rusty Mill & Co. has rust, the rust of time! We like to think that you can have memories related to Rusty Mill & Co. products, for this we have designed and created them so strong. Stand the test of time to tell their story, that is why Rusty Mill & Co. chose the Denim for its products, a unique fabric, resistant and change in the course of time, telling about its (your) life. Our Denim and accessories are traditional, we do not want to exasperate and distort, but to interpret while remaining faithful to the origins, and we try constantly create new garments with different selvages, while also listening to the advice of customers. We believe that today’s products born from the frenetic industry of large numbers does not have the same personality as those created by small brands close to the people, brands that offer without imposing, much rather a silent brand that allows the customer to seek and find, this is our concept of exclusivity. The online sales allows us to offer a great product at an attractive price, and gives us the opportunity to have direct contact with each of our clients.

2. How have you found that one day you wake up and want to start this business?
I was born in Naples (southern Italy) here the American dream always has been strong and present. My passion for denim born in the 90s, every week I went to Resina (one of the biggest flea markets in Europe that still provides unique garments and inspirations to fashion designers, costume designers, who come from all over the world) looking for used jeans, imported directly from America, I would buy “Levi’s orange tab”, “Lee” and some “Big E” for little money, most were older and more I was fascinated, those garments had stunning fades and a real life to tell me. Over the years, I did not want to just wear jeans, I wanted study them, understand them, from here begins a search on fabrics, fit, history and development of garments, at this stage I approached to the unwashed and Selvage Denim, the most pure and raw, a “white painting” where life impresses what you do. In 2009 I worked at the first project how to make Rusty Mill & Co. together with the designer Rossella Maione (my wife) and after one year we are starting with our brand.

3. Who were some of your main inspirations in getting started in this industry and why?
Rusty Mill & Co. looks to the past to move forward. Surely our reference brand is Levi’s, not just for history and products, but also for the wonderful advertising communication. Another very important thing to say and that many maybe don’t know is that Naples has many “Masters” of tailoring (with whom we work today) they have been to inspire the “human side” of Rusty Mill & Co. products, because even a simple hand-sewn button makes the difference. The research is maybe the most exciting phase for us, where ideas are born, where you understand the errors, where there is a constant evolution, we feel alive and in this work it is essential.

4. What is the best part about wearing Rusty Mill Denim?
Rusty Mill & Co. wants with their Denim and accessories transfer to the customer freedom: of be, do and appear … also replace the yarn we have chosen to sew buttons is a small customization, an imprint of the customer who collaborates in our work making everything friendly.

5. What are the tools you couldn’t live without?
My vintage machines … sure! I call them my “girlfriends”, my favorite is the “Union Special 43200G” for unreproducible roaping effect.
6. Tell us about your relationship with denim?
I can say that I have never worn anything in my life, in the past, maybe I was fascinated by industrial finishing, for years by the fabrics, manufacturing and selvedges, before was attraction, today is true love, respect …

7. Do you remember your first denim pair?
I remember the first pair of jeans, I bought a Levi’s 501 was already an icon. At that time, in Italy was a style called Paninaro (Timberland shoes, Levi’s jeans, and Moncler jacket) … the Pet Shop Boys also dedicated a song to it.

8. What’s your favourite denim piece? Why?
Chinos (IA5-12 / IA6-12) this is my last piece, I did a lot of testing before I realized what I had in mind, especially to study the front and back pockets, which are the key element of this garment, and sincerely the result was very satisfactory, even for fabrics that have a mood very rough.

9. What one thing would you like everyone to know about denim?
I want everyone to know the history of denim, in my opinion is a magic, a humble work garment now also in the wardrobe of the person more ‘rich in the world … the highest expression of democracy in fashion.’

10. For you, how do you see the future of denim? And what’s next?
I believe that the future of denim in part is in his past, luckily there is a return to the roots for a fair chunk of the denim sector, there are many traditional brands that make excellent products. Today many people prefer a raw denim with selvedge construction to an industrial finishing one. In perspective I hope that denim can be more and greener to help the earth … even if the raw denim in part already do. Rusty Mill & Co. has contributed to the project “No more plastic bag”, donating to Oceanus Research Group the graphic work for the shoppers 2012 dedicated to Capri.

11. What kind of things can we expect to see from Rusty Mill Denim in the future?
We are planning to open a flagship with our laboratory, in which to realize our products and sell them in close contact with the customers, who may choose to customize, deciding between different colors for the leather label, the color of the yarn, the leg length, buttons … a true “raw couture denim”. Besides for the future we want to constantly enrich our range of Denim and accessories and set up a production chain totally old, today we have some really rare machines especially in Italy.

12. Give us three words about Rusty Mill Denim.
Strong, Rusty, Alive

13. What song can describe Rusty Mill & Co. Denim best? And why?
We have no song that describes Rusty Mill & Co., would be too hard to pick just one, but I can say that I am too attached to great Neapolitan artists as Enzo Avitabile, James Senese and especially Pino Daniele, they tell about my city, my people.. . me. Accompany me in every step of Rusty Mill & Co., giving me energy and enthusiasm to go on my way…

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